Last Updated on March 3, 2026
Smashing lobsters in Soho
4.0 out of 5.0 stars
Before the rise of AI and the addictive temptations of social media, life used to be full of more innocent pleasures. I remember being childishly excited about the 2011 opening of the first Burger & Lobster restaurant in swanky Mayfair. There were only three main dishes on the menu, and the zeitgeisty no booking policy meant that queuing was virtually obligatory. We swooned at the lack of choice: burger or lobster? Hailing from the same group as the Goodman steak restaurants, it was the place to be seen and epitomised the new casual approach to dining, but with a luxe twist.
Time moves on, and there are now ten Burger & Lobster restaurants in London as well as outposts in Bangkok, Brighton, Indonesia, Kuwait, New York, Malaysia, the Philippines and Qatar. When I had the opportunity to revisit and review one of the group’s restaurants with a focus on the seafood side of things, I chose the Soho branch on Dean St, just a stone’s throw from my regular piano playing perch at the Groucho Club.
The interior is surprisingly large, so it can swallow up large parties without breaking a sweat. It’s ruggedly handsome with aquamarine tiles, red leather chairs and horseshoe booths, and wooden floors and tables. There’s a lot of greenery, and with disco faves and 80s bangers playing on the stereo, I felt right at home. Although there is no natural light inside, the restaurant is well-lit. There’s a sexy long bar by the door and a lobster tank feature where the doomed crustaceans frolic in full view, oblivious to their destiny as my lunch.
Disco music always makes me thirsty, and Burger & Lobster has a strong list featuring ‘Seasonal’ and ‘World’ cocktails as well as some good-looking ‘Mocktails’. As the designated drinker, I enjoyed a Strawberry Daiquiri, a blend of Kakira 7 rum, strawberry, lime, sugar syrup, cranberry and pineapple, garnished with the eponymous fruit. It needed more of a rum bite and a greater ratio of strawberry to the other fruits to be totally satisfying, but was very drinkable.
The Golden Mirage Mocktail, mixing Crossip citrus, orange, coconut syrup, mango, pineapple and sugar syrup, was sweet, refreshing and fruity. We munched on some honey-glazed lobster prawn crackers, which actually tasted of lobster, which is not always a given. With just enough spicy heat, they were annoyingly moreish.
Unless it’s a Monday, I always order oysters. I love eating the seductive bivalves, and, being loaded with zinc, there are probably all sorts of health benefits. At Burger & Lobster, I was served half a dozen Irish rocks along with traditional accoutrements of Tabasco, fresh lemon and shallot vinaigrette, which sounds much better when called Sauce Mignonette. They were meaty and full-flavoured. They do an ‘oyster happy hour’ with the oysters sold at half price for £1.50 each on Monday to Friday from 3 pm-6 pm, with the option of Oscietra caviar as an extra. It’s a steal at that price.
Freshly cut and fried calamari came in a tasty, light batter and were plated with spring onion, lime and a piquant Singapore spicy mayo that gave the dish a pleasing little kick. Other starters include grilled prawns and both lobster and Wagyu croquettes.
For my mains, I sensibly chose the Classic Whole Lobster, which can be served steamed or grilled. I took the latter option, with the flesh being tender and delicious, especially when dunked in the lemon garlic butter. Served with crisp, dry fries and a salad, this was a well put-together version of the dish that won’t disappoint.
Deciding against the hybrid pleasures of the Surf & Turf burger, we stuck with the lobster theme, choosing the very modern-sounding Lobster Smash Burger. A breaded double lobster and prawn smashed patty in a warm brioche bun came with lobster mayo, lettuce, tomato, red onion and ranch mayo, and a choice of fries or salad. It was a well-constructed dish, but the lobster’s flavour got a little lost in the bun with all the trimmings. Eating lobster is a messy business, so we were pleased to be offered freshly moistened napkins with a theatrical flourish to clean ourselves up. There is now some depth to the menu with dishes including lobster ravioli and a lobster mac’n cheese catching my eye.
I always think that if you’re going to have a dessert, then go big. The Burger & Lobster Ice Cream Sandwich, caramelised brioche, vanilla ice cream, brownie, caramel and popcorn, was a proper calorie-laden sweet treat.
Sometimes revisiting old haunts can be a letdown. But Burger & Lobster has retained its character, and the food is still fun, perfect for an after-work do, family party or a date or a pre- or post-theatre bite. Let’s face it, none of us misses queuing and having a more developed menu makes sense. I’m going to return for the lobster mac’n cheese!
Burger & Lobster Soho
36-38 Dean Street
London
W1D 4PS
For more restaurants to try, do check the roundup of our favourite new restaurant openings for 2025
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